Luxury & Fashion
Nov 1, 2016
FELINE FEMINILITY - PANTHÉRE BY CARTIER
There's something about the Panther that overflows luxury and elegance. Whether it's the feline agility with which it moves or the unusual design of its fur, the truth is that it has always been an animal that extols the senses, passing at the same time the sense of confidence and desirability.
The interest and inspiration of fashion creators in the coat of this exotic cat design, appears in the 18th century, in ostensible French Court of Louis XVI. In the 19th century, during the time of Napoleon, the use of fur became very frequent on the cover of sofas and banquettes, from the most noble and wealthy family's salons. And, by the turn of the 20th century, the Panther also became a muse for worldwide renown artists and sculptors.
No wonder, so, it has become one of the greatest icons for one of the most prestigious jewellery brands in the world: Cartier.
This artistic relationship began in 1914, when the window of the shop on the "Rue de la Paix, 13", in Paris, exhibited the first pieces in diamonds and Onyx coat pattern inspired by this Ocelot. That same year, Louis Cartier commissioned George Barbier, a well-known illustrator of the time, a painting that depicted a woman with jewels and a Panther. It became poster and publicity for an exhibition of pearls and jewels over the theme "Woman and Panther". Thus, sealed the relationship between animal and creator which lingers for over one hundred years.
The first piece of the french house, inspired over the Panther´s fur, is born in 1914, with a diamond and onyx incrustated wrist watch. Plus, the following year, is introduced a second piece - a lady's pendant watch.
One of the most iconic pieces for this jewel and fashion creator, and animal relationship arrives in 1917: the cigarette-case representing the Panther between two emerald cypress. This was the piece offered by Louis Cartier to Jeanne Toussaint, his great long-time friend, which represents the Panther entirely, not only for its fur pattern, for the first time.
Jeanne Toussaint had a special taste over natural fur, and her house in Paris was fully decorated with natural furs and leather instead of carpets. In 1933, Jeanne Toussaint became main art-director for all the Cartier creations.
Between 1922 and 1927, the usage of Panther´s natural fur also became mainstream for most of the pieces built by the french jeweler. Still, a long time passed until the next full representation piece of the animal. Such memorable event took place in 1948, with the Duke of Windsor request for a brooch to present the duchess Wallis Simpson.
Though quite simple, the jewel is quite amazing. One gold Panther, speckled with black enamel, sitting over a 116-carat emerald. Another Cartier jewel is to be required the next year for the Duchess of Windsors collection, again with the Panther: this time in the shape of a 152-carat sapphire pavé and the Panther in diamonds and sapphire.
The third request for the Duchess is even more extraordinary and was built and delivered, back in 1952. It is a simple and articulated bracelet representing a lying down Panther, built in diamonds and Onyx, with special emerald eyes.
During the 1950 and 60's decades, Panther´sign set a mark on the Cartier portfolio. The beautiful feline was to be designed as gentle, playful or languorous, as well as fearful, protecting or threatening.
Don't be mistaken, however, if you think the master jeweler was kept along with watches and bracelets. Until the end of the 20th century, the brand has been developing a full variety of fashion pieces, for women and men, representing the Panther, going from watches, rings, brooches, cigarette-cases, rings and necklaces. And, even, in 1987, a perfume, gardenia scented named - "La Panthère de Cartier".
Entering the 21st century, the feline has a more stylized touch with geometric lines and a contemporary design.